Showing posts with label eels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label eels. Show all posts

Thursday, December 1, 2011

More about Eels

One year ago, I posted a story about eels on this blog.  Eels provided an inexpensive meals for many ancestors in the north east.  I must confess I have never an opportunity to partake!  Now it seems eels are vanishing from the great rivers and there may never be a chance to know what our French Canadian ancestors experienced.  In October, the Agence France-Presse (AFP) ran a story abut the vanishing eels in the St Lawrence River...

Site d'interprétation de l'anguille de Kamouraska

Saint Lawrence seaway eels slipping into oblivion
 by Guillaume Lavallee (AFP) – Oct 20, 2011

KAMOURASKA, Canada — Standing in tall rubber boots in mud smeared with gooey algae, Bruno Ouellet tugs on massive nets strewn across the shores of the Saint Lawrence River, hoping to snag just a few eels.  "The fishing isn't good," the 47-year-old says. "In the early 1980s, you could catch 1,000 eels in a cage, but today I've only got three and I have to work just as hard."

For centuries, aboriginals and later French colonists fished eels from the shores of the mighty waterway at Kamouraska, Quebec about 400 kilometers (250 miles) northeast of Montreal.
Then suddenly, the eel population collapsed and only a handful of fishermen are still tending their nets here, from September to October each year.  The eels of this region reproduce in the Sargasso Sea in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean.  The larvae migrate towards Canadian shores where they are fished, or they go on to inland lakes and rivers where they grow into adult eels that eventually return to the waters near Bermuda to start over the cycle.

Researchers and fishers noted a decline in the population starting in the 1980s. "It's a freefall," said Guy Verreault, a biologist with the Quebec ministry of natural resources.
Pollution in the Great Lakes is partly to blame.  Also, 12,000 dams and other obstacles were erected along the eels' migration route on the Saint Lawrence River towards the Great Lakes over the years, hindering their reproduction.  "Of the eels that do manage to overcome these obstacles (on their way to freshwater basins inland), 40 percent later die in the hydroelectric turbines on their way back to the Sargasso Sea," Verreault said.

Twenty years ago, fishermen caught up to 400 tonnes of eels per year, but now their annual catch is less than 40 tonnes, he estimated.  The odorous, fatty white meat was smoked and exported to Germany and Japan. But nowadays, the lean harvest is mostly sold to Chinatowns in North America.

The government of Quebec in 2009 bought back most of the eel fishing permits issued over past decades, in an effort to prevent a total collapse of the fishery.  Today, there are just 14 licensed eel fishers in these parts, including Gertrude Madore, a 75-year-old redhead who was the first and maybe the last woman to be licensed by the province.  In the past, fishermen would cross the muddy beach on horseback to bring the eels back to their village. "There were spots where the horses got stuck so we had to haul the eels out in sacks on our backs; they would wiggle and we'd fall face first into the sludge," Madore recalled.  "Today we have tractors, but there are no more eels," she said.

According to Canadian government statistics, the number of young eels entering inland lakes and rivers through the Saint Lawrence has dropped to less than three percent of the numbers recorded in the 1980s.  During the same period, the population has remained stable in other North American coastal waters.  Biologist Louis Bernatchez of Laval University in Quebec City believes the divergence in the population numbers inland and in coastal waters in North America may be due to genetic changes.  "It takes an eel with specific genetic qualities to make it to the upper Saint Lawrence river," he explained. "Generations of eels were crushed in electric turbines, and so these (robust) qualities are less present among this population."

"If it continues, the eel will disappear from these parts," he said.  Biologists say if it can be done it will take 25 to 30 years for the eel population to bounce back in these waters.
On the shores of the Saint Lawrence River, the last eel fishers tend their nets, breathing in the salt air blowing from the ocean and listening to geese squawking above as they begin their annual migration south for the winter.

"My children and my grandchildren will continue to fish. One day, things will change back to the way they were," Madore said hopefully.

Copyright © 2011 AFP. All rights reserved.


Sunday, December 12, 2010

Meals of Eels: What's for dinner during the Great Depression 1

My mother told me when she was growing up, there were weekly meals of eels! Yes, The Wills kids ate eel for dinner.  As my dad recalled, so did the Mylott kids in Waterford and on the canal.  The Champlain canal and the Hudson River must have been full of eels!

American Eel, plentiful and free when you lived near canals in New York State in the early 20th century.  The  Champlain canal ran through Cohoes, Waterford, and Schuylerville which were all towns my family lived in.  Today the American eel is in decline - see Status of the American Eel.  Getting back to the meal on hand....
I can't imagine how my grandparents prepared eel.  All the current recipes say to kill it and skin it.  The flesh is flaky and tasty.

Discussions on the internet say to cut off the head, get a gripping tool and pull the skin away from the head toward the distal end (tail) and  that it is very difficult to do!  Pan fry it or grill it and expect the eel to continue to move and slither about until it's last moments over the fire!  
I vaguely recall my mother telling me, her father, John Albert Wills, caught the eels which means it was NOT a Franco-American tradition in this household because dear old grandpa was the son of a Cornishman. Maybe in Cornwall, they eat a lot of eel too.  In Québec, there are stories of eel catching from the St Lawrence beginning with native fisherman who lived along its shores to early French pioneers to the 20th century. Kamourska,  Québec on the south shore of the St Lawrence has a long tradition of eel fishing and even has an "Eel  Interpretive Center" in the town.  Fisheries and Ocean Canada has a great web page about the American Eel and its historic and present day importance in the economy of Québec. Click here.

I am not eager to try this tradition. Thanks but no thanks, mom.