Showing posts with label Québec bike touring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Québec bike touring. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Day 7: Last Day on the French Canada Tandem Tour!

Day 7 Cowansville to St. Bernard de Lacolle
Rides of 45 or 51 miles

This is an amazing day of riding on mostly flat country roads, returning to St Bernard. Bike through Mystic, to see the imposing twelve sided barn built by the Walbridge family. Enjoy this barn, now a museum and national heritage site.  Ride along Lake Champlain, into the US, with its wonderful lakeside views and restaurants. We pass old stone buildings and wonderful countryside in Vermont and New York. Then we return over the border to Canada and St Bernard.



More roosters! Québec loves roosters! This one protect the garden - 
A scare rooster!

Eight sided barn in Mystic

Another covered bridge over the Brochette River

Brochette River translates to Pike River



At the covered bridge we met and spoke with this young man riding his bike.  He was a farmer who now allows his son to direct the family business. He told us he came to this area of Stanbridge sixty years ago from Belgium.  He was a teenage soldier in WWII and remembered well the Battle of the Bulge.  He farmed the corners near the covered bridge and his wife cultivated a beautiful garden across the way.  Now days he suffers from macular degeneration -  but gets around on his bike.  He pointed out the locations of the sawmill, now gone and an area in the Brochette River where there was a small dam to power the mill.  He told us Charlotte Trottier Desrivières, née Guillimin, the wife of James McGill, founder of McGill University in Montréal, was a native from these parts.   Set back in the woods off the road was a "mansion" (it was- I could see it from the road) that had something to do with Charlotte and McGill....

Searching online I found this site in French from the Notre Dame de Stanbridge site.  The Google translation is..not very good but here it is...



Malmaison in Notre-Dame de Stanbridge

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MALMAISON OF OUR LADY OF STANBRIDGE

Family Desrivières
In 1801, King George III conceded to Hugh Finlay, 31.000 acres in the western part of the Township of Stanbridge.
Hugh Finlay died the same year and it is James McGill, who became owner of the concession.
James McGill, born in Glasgow, Scotland (1744) had married Marie-Charlotte Guillemin, widow of Joseph Amable Trottier said Desrivières, who had left two son, François and François-Amable Hyppolithe.
James McGill died December 19, 1813 and bequeathed to the "Royal Institution for the Advancement of Learning," $ 40,000, and its ownership of Burnside for the construction of a College or University. (McGill University in Montreal was built in 1821).
François-Amable Stanbridge inherits the territory of the death of his adoptive father, his brother Francis Hyppolithe died following a duel in 1799.
In 1830, François-Amable, in turn, dies and bequeaths to his two son François-Henri Guillaume and all his possessions and conceded the territory of Stanbridge formerly Hugh Finlay.
1842-1877: "Malmaison"
Both the son of François-Amable Desrivières then settled around 1841, this territory loyalist with the aim to grow their business, which consists in treating wood, grain, flour, and later in transport their goods by train. (1860)
At the place called "Malmaison" on the river called "Pike River" a village is formed and a community develops. A dam is built across the river to enable a sawmill and a gristmill on both sides of the River. A bridge is needed to enable residents and workers to go to one or the other mills. Desrivières then build a chapel, a station (the Central Vermont Company), a general store, post office, school, and that a community is formed, so that by 1848, the place called "Malmaison" the name of the family residence Desrivières, which now has more than 200 people, is constituted as a municipality is that of Our Lady of the Angels of Stanbridge, as the first mayor with Mr. Henri Desrivières, the the most influential man of the time. The latter was also the prefect of the Corporation of the County of Missisquoi, a position he held in 1856 and 1857.
This town, one of the first to be established in this part of the Province of Lower Canada, which included lots numbers 1 to 146 of the eighth concession of 31,000 acres Sabrevois and the Township of Stanbridge, administer this great country for over forty years until March 21, 1889 while the Government of Quebec  formed from the same area three new municipalities: Stanbridge-Station, St-Ignace de Stanbridge and Notre-Dame de Stanbridge.
Stanbridge St Charles or "couture": 1850 - 1889
A two and a half miles north of Malmaison, there was a craft center known as St Charles Stanbridge which is commonly called "couture", the name of the largest owner of the place.
Joseph Couture, (son of Julien) was an ambitious and enterprising man, who, seeing the prosperity of other villages and towns Stanbridge, decided to establish several companies around the power of water given to him by the Pike River.
Enjoying a water level higher than at Malmaison, the small craft center of "couture" has been growing faster than the first and has been gaining importance in industry, commerce, population and this at the expense of Malmaison.
Thus in 1880, there are between each other: a flour mill, a sawmill, a carding mill and a large plant tissues, all properties of Joseph Couture, and to complete the "picture" a butter factory, a tannery, a blacksmith shop, several general store, a post office, a school and a beautiful new church opened December 25, 1879 at midnight mass.
Proud of a growing population, St Charles de Stanbridge, March 21, 1889 became the Municipality of Notre-Dame de Stanbridge.
On June 27, 1913, a Decree of Council of the Government of Quebec annexed to the Municipality of Notre-Dame de Stanbridge lots numbers 1 to 105 of the Lordship of Sabrevois belonging to the Municipality of Notre-Dame des Anges, which was dissolved the same days.
Notre-Dame de Stanbridge was the first town in several areas: in fact, this is the first municipality was incorporated in the Province of Lower Canada, it is here that the first Catholic church was built in 1843 and is the first village of the township of Stanbridge to have had a predominantly French-speaking population in the nineteenth century, a territory reserved only for English-speaking Loyalists.
By the way of our day or was located Malmaison ie Desrivières in the row, near the covered bridge, it is difficult to imagine that this site was once a hub of activity for the family as significant as Desrivières for the 200 people who lived there and it drew the resources necessary for their well being.
As against the village of Notre-Dame de Stanbridge, some activity still prevails. While progress has eliminated the majority of companies of the nineteenth century. The place will remain peaceful and "pastoral" as the circular tourist. The river, which is for giving so much power hydraulic continues to delight us and make our village a better place to live.
My sources: Album of the centenary of Notre-Dame de Stanbridge
Missisquoi, a Store of Memories, Vol. XII
********

Then I found, on the same site, photos of the mill, the general store, and the busy community that once thrived near the covered bridge!  Everything the old veteran was talking about to us was about how, at this very corner we were on, there was once a thriving commercial  community. Time passes; it all changes.  The mill, the store, the commerce have all disappeared... but he remembers so well and we, passing by for a brief moment on our tandem, can only gasp for the meaning and the memory.


Good day Québec!
Until the next time.

Day 6: Sightings on the Route to Cowansville

Day 6 Knowlton to Cowansville
Rides of 27 or 30 miles

Two routes travel to Cowansville, a lovely older town. The northern route lets you visit a great winery, Domaine les Brome (285, chemin Brome) for tastings. You continue north to Bromont, to let people spend more time in this nice small town. Ride along quiet, winding river roads and cross another wooden covered bridge.  The southern ride travels down valley roads to Sutton (circa 1802), for a midway stop and restaurants. Ride on to Cowansville, with its 14 bridges including another covered bridge! Follow Cowansville walking (biking) tour and enjoy the opulent Victorian style houses. 


Below: Still trying to figure out the meaning of this frequently sighted road sign...B.D. translates it as "Be careful of our or the children, she might be yours."






Note the Rooster over Garage Door


At Valentin's, the best Poutin in Cowansville!



Day 5: those darn roosters!

 Day 5 Lac Brome, Ducks, Mont Echo, & East 
Rides of 12, 19 and 38 miles
With three loops, you can combine rides for morning and afternoon fun. Leave enough time to join the visit to Canard du Lac Brome, where duck is their specialty. A tour and a cooking demonstration is included.  One ride circles Lac Brome, with it's beautiful eastern shore. Another loop circles Mont Echo, with a chance to visit Forge Art and to ride the quiet but hillier terrain south of Knowlton. A longer loop rides east and north, returning along Lac Brome.  Or take a rest day, walking historic Knowlton. Visit Knowlton's historic museum, which includes a fire tower, 1854 schoolhouse, and a WW1 Fokker aircraft!

While Knowlton is all about ducks, I found myself thinking about roosters again. It all started when I spotted the interesting World War I poster, below,  in the Brome County Historical Society Museum.  It is a recruiting poster in French trying soliciting French Canadians to help France overcome Germany. While I was not surprised to note Germany is represented by an eagle, I thought the representation of France as a rooster a little disingenuous, especially after I wrote about roosters last month.  And the rooster looks pretty small compared to that big eagle!












A WWI war trophy brought back to Canada. 





Meanwhile the famous Brome ducks were all about in Lac Brome, behaving politely in the restaurant where we ate that evening:



Day 4: Chitty Chitty Bike Bike, Cycling , Cows, Covered Bridges, Chocolate

A perfect  day! cycling, fresh air, fresh water and chocolate! By the way, during the week our tandem bike, a semi-recumbent Viewpoint built by Bilenky, was christened by LK with a very appropriate name: Chitty Chitty Bike Bike. By Day #4, there was no changing the name.  So the day moved forward and so too did Chitty Chitty Bike Bike.  
Then came the cow.  This cow didn't know what to make out of Chitty Chitty Bike Bike. Perhaps she thought we were another cow approaching a little too quickly along the bike path for her pace. She eyed us cautiosly.  Assured that the cow was a cow and not a bull (duh), Chitty Chitty Bike Bike wheeled on!



Curious Canadian Cow

Covered Bridge over the Yamaska River....Where Chitty Chitty Bike Bike rested a while

a short rest at a covered bridge
Yamaska River



back on the road

in Farham, a rest spot at the chocolatier



and sightings of Angelica, (Angelica atropurpurea) in the Parsley family along the stream banks on the side of the road...These plants were 5 to 7 feet tall, and the crowns the size of a beach ball! It may be a weed but it was beautiful!





Monday, July 4, 2011

Day 4: Wayside Shrines (Croix de Chemin) in Québec

Day 4 Tour Description
St Jean sur Richelieu to Knowlton
Rides of 51, 53 or 58 miles

Most of this ride is through flat countryside, ending with easy climbs after Bromont and around Lac Brome. A dedicated bike path can be used to shorten the beginning.  Cross a covered bridge while following the river road. Enjoy the atmosphere of Bromont and visit its chocolate museum. Ride along the beautiful shoreline of Lac Brome. Arrive at Auberge Knowlton, a historic inn and our home for the next two days.


While cycling through southern Québec we passed many wayside crosses or shrines, a European Catholic tradition continued throughout Québec. The painter Horatio Walker who captured everyday Québec peasant life, made several paintings of farmers pausing to pray at wayside shrines.






According to the Encyclopedia of French Cultural Heritage in North America many wayside shrines remain:

"Nearly 3,000 wayside crosses are still standing along the highways and byways of the Province of Quebec. They represent a precious heritage - a legacy of the past. The first crosses were erected by Jacques Cartier as a symbol of territorial appropriation. Later, the pioneers used them to mark the founding of a village and French Canadian peasant farmers (then known as habitants) did the same upon staking their land claims. All sorts of reasons have led French Canadians to put up wayside crosses: farmers set them up close to their fields for divine protection; parish priests erected them to indicate the site of a future church; parishioners raised them up on the halfway point along a concession or range road, where they would gather for the evening prayer. Although wayside crosses are first and foremost religious objects, over time they have taken on a more heritage-oriented significance, their distinctive outline characterizing a particularity of the Quebec countryside that has come to be associated with the faith of the French Canadian forefathers."  



Although the numbers of wayside shrines in Québec are less than in decades past, they are still present in the rural landscape where we cycled.  Here are photos of six wayside shrines we saw on our trip.











Day 2 of Québec Bike Touring: Making Friends along the Route!

A Tandem Teams with Two Passengers on the road into St Jean!